Persis Solo

An Afternoon with the Pasoepati Crew

*An edited version of this was published in The Jakarta Post. Before I got back on the train to Yogyakarta, my friend, Ramdhon said, “take your t-shirt off – it is better not to wear it in Yogyakarta, or even on the train.” Yogyakarta and Solo are seemingly locked in ongoing tensions: two nearby cities…

Sriwedari Stadium

Sriwedari Stadium Solo and Yogyakarta are two central Javanese cities separated only by some 60km. The fans of the two main teams, those of PSIM in Yogyakarta and Persis Solo in Solo, fight when they pass through each others cities. In the Divisi Utama season of 2013-14, arrangements were made so that the teams played…

Death at Manahan

Joko Riyanto went to the game with a few thousand rupiah in his pocket. He left the game, carried by trembling police, with Rp.3,000 (30 cents, for what it is worth) in his pocket and a bullet hole in the right side of his chest. The day after the game, players and the coach of…

I Heart Pasoepati

Football team merchandise is a necessary means for creating a club’s image and subculture. It’s attractive for youth and stakes a claim for difference from the mainstream. The styles of the t-shirts also provide a link with the pop cultures of music and other football teams. Through the posing of the amateur models, an anthropologist…

Reading Sideways